Arles

An hour away from Montpellier is the Provençal town of Arles. Previously a Roman town, it has an amphitheatre, a theatre and the Alyscamps, a field of famous graves. So famous in fact that, in mediaeval times, people used to pay to be buried there and the Rhone boatmen made a fortune transporting coffins.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alyscamps

There is also a famous poem. https://www.poetica.fr/poeme-1956/paul-jean-toulet-en-arles/

This is the old town in Arles.

We have seen the amphitheatre – now used for both Spanish corrida (bullfights where they kill the bull) and French ones (where they don’t). Interestingly the guide pointed out that not only are there tombs to the best undefeated bulls in the Camargue, but also the possibility of meeting a bull when going for a quiet swim has helped to save that bit of the coast from the developments of the rest of it.

The amphitheatre
The ancient Roman amphitheatre with added modern bits for bullfighting.
More of the external amphitheatre.
Some of the more ‘modern’ looking additions are actually 18thC. There is a date over one of the arches. Until then, there were houses and shops built into every bit of it. The digging up of Pompeii got everyone excited about their own ruins.
At the top of the amphitheatre there are two 12thC towers. This is the view of the town from one of them.

After the amphitheatre we went to the theatre – used these days for theatrical and musical productions.

This is the Fondation Luma, a modern art museum. The building a by Frank Gehry (who built the Guggenheim in Bilbao). It is a very dramatic building, on the site of an old railway works, with conversions of the old industrial buildings out the back. It is a shame they have way more building than art (apart from viewing platforms, the top 5 floors are not open to the public).

I don’t know what the official title of this is but ‘intestines’ seemed to fit.
These are the lifts. The wall is made of salt!
Splendid view of the town from the 9th floor.
Slides by Carsten Holler, similar to those he installed at Tate Britain a while back.
Toadstools?
This is a candle, first displayed at the Venice Biennale in 2011. It is a wax copy of a statue entitled Rape of a Sabine Woman.

And then we drove through the Camargue. We saw bulls, horses, rice fields and flamingoes. All the things on the posters.

This is La Grande Motte, a purpose built seaside resort, started in the 1960s. It seems to have a taste for right wing politicians: all the roads are called Chirac, Pompidou etc. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Grande-Motte

And dinner – three courses in a fish restaurant by the quayside. Yum!

Fish soup, oysters and tuna tartare.
Prawns with risotto and sea bass.

One thought on “Arles

  1. Gorgeous photos, and surprisingly deserted shots. Has the tourist season not picked up yet? It certainly gives you the best views of the monuments – the arena is amazing and the theatre, albeit there’s less of it left…dinner looks pretty amazing too. *g*

    Liked by 1 person

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