Churches – and a palace.

Today the weather was very similar to what we’d left behind – very chilly, rainy and windy. It was supposed to rain all day but we didn’t get wet. Weather report over.

Church No 1 – the cathedral. Started in the 11C and added to since, it is an interesting mixture.

Incidentally, opposite this is a building where the shop on the downstairs floor has been empty for 40 years because the owner insists on charging an unaffordable rent.

Inside are the ashes of John the Baptist. Not entirely sure where they came from or how legitimate they are 😁 but they are taken out and paraded round the town every June for his saints day.

Interior
Remains of old Byzantine style decoration.
John the Baptist’s chapel
Reliquary for the ashes given to the church by Barbarossa in the 16C.
Bomb. From a British cruiser. Landed on the floor of the church in 1941, destroying the roof but not exploding.

Church No 2 – St Matteo.

This is the Doria church. In mediaeval times, when Genoa rivalled Venice in maritime power in the Mediterranean, the city was controlled by several powerful families, one of which was the Doria. Not only did they build this church on their land, they also built several palazzi around it, all of which they still own.

The church. Unfortunately, the priest is grumpy and only opens for services.
The cloister
Palace of Andrea Doria, given to him by a grateful Republic. More about him further down.

On the way to the next church. Many of the streets in the old town are either alleys or steep flights of steps. This one is one of the larger ones.

Fruit and veg shop.
Notice the nice juxtaposition- historical statue of Hercules with the lingerie department.
This is the church of the old banking quarter. The owners built shops and then used the profits from the rent on the shops to build the church on top. Apparently the word ‘bank’ comes from the benches (banchi in Italian) the money men used to put their cash on.

Church No 3 – San Luca.

Beautiful baroque altar with the Virgin apparently dancing on a cloud surrounded by putti.

Church No 4 – San Siro

They are beginning to meld into each other. We only went into this one to look at the painting below.
The Annunciation by Orazio Gentileschi (father of Artemisia)

Church No 5 – Annunziato del Vastato

This is a Franciscan church, originally built outside the mediaeval town walls. Vastato means in open space.

Pretty. Shame about the bomb damage – again.

Villa del Principe – country house of Admiral Andrea Doria

This is, of course, now in the town, but in 1530 when it was built, it was out in the country. Andrea Doria was a very interesting man. He was born up the coast of Liguria and originally became a soldier, fighting for the likes of Federico da Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino in the endless Italian wars. Having participated in the expulsion of the French from Genoese territory in the service of the navy, he became a famous naval commander, fighting all sorts of people across the Mediterranean. As the French then recovered Genoa he entered the service of Francis I of France. This was swiftly followed by a transfer to Emperor Charles V when Francis went back on his promises. After a range of activities in the service of the Emperor, he was able to finally expel the French from Genoa. He refused to become Doge but reformed the constitution, introducing statutes that remained in place until the end of the Republic in 1797. He rebuilt the city walls and settled down in his new country house. His wealth and power at this stage were much envied and there were several unsuccessful conspiracies against him. He went to sea again in the service of the Emperor, the last time aged 88. He died aged 93.

Villa del Principe
Loggia
Andrea Doria – not a man to mess with, one feels.
Garden. I cut out the cruise ship terminal just beyond.
Long Gallery

And back at the hotel I thought I’d have a little cocktail before dinner. This is what he brought me….

Aperol spritz!

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