Nenthead is the highest village in England, set amidst the rolling fells (blasted heath?) of Alston Moor. Originally a lead mining area, the population of the village was over 2000 in the mid 19thC. Today, that is the population of the whole area. There are old mine pits everywhere, mainly invisible, along with spoil heaps and plants that only grow on sites with high levels of heavy metals. The Coal Board (a vestigial entity who have the responsibility for clearing up mine waste) are currently building a water treatment plant to remove the heavy metals from the river.

The cycling Tour of Britain goes from Penrith up and across the moor, doing three ‘king of the mountains’ stages en route. Hartside Pass, the first one, rises to 1904 ft from Penrith. From the top it is apparently possible to see Helvellyn, Great Gable, Skiddaw and Criffel in southern Scotland. Mere cycling mortals can follow this route as part of the Coast to Coast route. Alston Moor is the source of the South Tyne, Wear and Tees rivers.

After puffing their way to the top, the cyclists went through Alston and on to Nenthead where the locals had made a major effort with bunting, some of it made from t shirts decorated by local children and yarn bombs on the post box, old water fountain etc.

And then the bikes finally turned up. Shame they have to be accompanied by quite so many cars …..

Their next stage is Killhope. This 2057ft high pass goes over from the Tyne valley into Weardale. It is apparently called Killhope because of the Killhope Cross, a possibly mediaeval construction at the height of the summit. Of course it could just be for obvious reasons …..