It’s all been very busy today and we have walked miles. Firstly, on the vaporetto to the Rialto bridge. Built in the 16C to replace the previous wooden one, it has shops and three sets of steps. We are very lucky that Venice is so quiet – as the only bridge over the Grand Canal, it is normally heaving with tourists.
After this, to the Palazzo Grimani. Built by one cardinal and expanded by his great nephew – who wasn’t a cardinal but so desperately wanted to be one he had himself painted in Cardinal’s robes – it has a nice collection of art and sculpture. It is also currently displaying a collection of modern art that we were united in disliking.
This is the land entrance. This is the courtyard. These are unusual in Venice and it is thought to show the Roman influence of the various churchmen involved. This is the staircase, again in a non-Venetian style. Ganymede being raped and abducted by Jupiter in the form of an eagle. Apparently he ‘made it up to him’ later by making him his cupbearer. Amazing room made for the display of these statues. They have only recently been returned there, having been on display in other museums. Coffee next to the church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli.
Next stop, the Ca D’Oro. So called because the facade, when it was first built, was decorated with gold and precious stones. I have learned that, the only building in Venice that is actually a Palazzo is the Doge’s palace. Everything else is a Ca – short for Casa or house.
This is the ground floor of the house with flood levels. The top one is in 1966. Apparently Venice now has a flood barrier which is hopefully keeping out the worst of it. View of the Grand Canal through the windows in the first floor loggia. These are not the original glass but a replica and give an idea of what it would have been like.
Following this visit, those of us up for a bit more of a walk went to look at some other things towards the north of the city.
The entrance to the Ghetto. The buildings are higher here as the Jews were all forced to live inside and had no space to build sideways. Apparently ‘ghetto’ means ‘place of casting’ as that was what went on there before the houses were built – making cannon. This one is entirely for Andrew……..When you sit down in a working mens cafe for a light lunch you don’t expect them to say ‘would you like Prosecco?’ And then to bring Prosecco della casa in a carafe! Very nice it was too. This is the Casino Venier – now used as the offices of the Alliance Francaise. A casino is either a casino or a brothel, depending on how you inflect it. This one could have been both. It has a spy hole in the floor so you can see who is knocking on the door. View of canal with gondola. There are a lot of gondoliers standing around waiting for clients because of the minimum number of tourists.
The Palazzo Pesaro dei Orfei, which houses the Museo Fortuny, was down on our list as being ‘facade only’. Luckily they have just reopened it, decorated in the style that it was when he lived there and had the workshop producing his fabrics and dresses. He was also, apparently, a leading pioneer in the use of electricity.
The portego or piano nobile of the Museo Fortuny.
And in the evening we went out to dinner…..
Night on the Grand Canal. Night on the Grand Canal. Squid ink tagliatelle with spider crab. Yum!
How interesting! You’ll certainly sleep well tonight, it looks as though you’ve trekked for miles and on brick/stone surfaces. I’ll admit the seafood tagliatelle looks challenging, but on the other hand I thoroughly approve of cafes that serve prosecco so casually.
Wonderful words and pictures!
Grazie Mille!
Thank you for the picture of Corte Zappa, although even I would have to admit that it is something of an anti-climax. ( Zappa means hoe in Italian.)
Please keep up this high standard!
The Retirement Travels 
How interesting! You’ll certainly sleep well tonight, it looks as though you’ve trekked for miles and on brick/stone surfaces. I’ll admit the seafood tagliatelle looks challenging, but on the other hand I thoroughly approve of cafes that serve prosecco so casually.
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Wonderful words and pictures!
Grazie Mille!
Thank you for the picture of Corte Zappa, although even I would have to admit that it is something of an anti-climax. ( Zappa means hoe in Italian.)
Please keep up this high standard!
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Fabulous! Thanks Ann, set me up for the day before delving into The Three Little Pigs science experiment with 4 year olds!
xx
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Santa Maria dei Miracoli is my favourite church. Where did you go for that lovely crab dish?
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I can’t remember the name of the restaurant – will ask them in charge.
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The restaurant is called Ai Carmini. It is small and local but the food is good.
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Thank you. Looking forward to seeing other osterias that you’re taken to. Are you doing a Martin Randall tour?
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Yes – you still June?
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