Aix en Provence Day 1

Finally got to the Aix en Provence TGV station at 8.30 yesterday evening. As it’s a long way from the town and, although there is a bus, I was too tired to find it, I took an expensive taxi ride in a Tesla, no less, at way more than the speed limit all the way to the hotel. The bloke behind me in the queue had to show me how to open the door……. I have read an appalling article on how Tesla door handles, which are supposed to open automatically in the case of an accident, have actually locked so the emergency services can’t get in and have to watch the driver die in front of them. Anyway….. (not cheerful and a digression).

Last night I watched a bit of a French detective serial – our heroine has started a new job as detective inspector in the small town where she grew up. She is staying with her (interfering and over protective) parents who want to be involved in her cases. In the course of the first episode her husband sends all her stuff over, says he’s leaving her and then doesn’t answer his phone, she finds out she’s 3 months pregnant, she’s accused of getting the job because her parents know the prefect and she finds out that her father is probably not her father. It’s a lot to process for one 1 hour episode!

Since breakfast in the hotel I have been wandering around the old town of Aix en Provence, admiring the 17 and 18C architecture and the chi chi shops. I suspect it is very expensive to live here. (PS from later – it is VERY expensive to live here. They not only have a branch of Sotheby’s Realty but there was a €10 million house in the window!). I am now drinking coffee in a cafe with a view of the town hall.

Most of the centre is semi pedestrianised – there are small delivery vans, the occasional car, mopeds and dinky electric golf cart things that appear to be a tiny bus making a circuit of the town centre. Here are some random pictures.

Traditional bakers
Little almond cakes – speciality of the town.
A chocolatier. Bake Off eat your heart out.
A memorial to a priest outside L’Eglise du Saint Esprit – in Provençal!
The austere interior of Saint Esprit – fully in the spirit of the counter reformation following the Council of Trent.
Specialist biscuit shop.
Place d’Albertas
17C hotel particulier with 18C gateway.
Church originally built in the 13C, altered and restored subsequently and this facade added in the 19C. It’s been closed for multiple restorations since around 2006.
Lunch!

This afternoon I went to the Cezanne exhibition at the Musee Granet. Cezanne was born here and spent a lot of time here throughout his life. The house, Bastide du Jas de Bouffon, that belonged originally to his father and featured heavily in his paintings has also got an exhibition. Mont St Victoire, also painted frequently, was visible from the garden. This exhibition is part of a festival celebrating his life but the other events – tours of the house and of the quarry where he did a lot of his painting – were sold out.

Portrait of Cezanne’s father.
Self portrait – apologies for off centre pic and light reflection!
Pool in the garden
Off centre flowers.
Still life with cherries
Portrait of a local shepherd
Self portrait sketch towards the end of his life.
Marble eagle from the permanent collection in the museum.
Inscription on the side of a bust of the man who founded the first schools for the deaf in France in the 18C

This evening I have been out for a Breton crepe (!) with some other ladies travelling on their own. Music and dancing in the street was going on as it is still warm enough to eat outside.

One thought on “Aix en Provence Day 1

  1. I’m so glad you’ve got decent weather to see and enjoy the town (here Storm Amy is howling around the village, but thankfully the power hasn’t gone off yet – the Yetholm Shepherds Show was cancelled. I wasn’t baking, phew.)

    I love the first image of the baker’s – it’s a wonderful expression of the French ability to make anything/anywhere a little ‘distressed’ look chique.

    That is possibly the most ferocious eagle in stone I’ve ever seen!

    Liked by 1 person

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